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Post subject: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 11:45 am
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I have a <1 yr. old Fender '57 Deluxe Head Clone.
Periodically, I get a nasty hum which I've traced to poor contact (due to oxidation) of the unused shorting jack inputs (4) (where the shorting jack arm contacts the tip arm). If I clean the points of contact, all is well (no hum) for a period....maybe 4-6 weeks, then it recurs and I have to repeat the process. It's a PITA.

Could a tiny dab of a contact grease on the "points" eliminate the recurrence (or at least make it much less frequent)? OR would this likely cause other problem(s)? If this would work, what product is recommended?

Thanks in advance for your personal experience.

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Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 2:12 pm
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Clean & adjust the contact points, so the faces have the most contact.

I like crocus or fine emery cloth to clean contact faces. Then, a small needle-nose plier to tighten & adjust the points for parallel contact. Kinda like cleaning and fitting old school ignition points, in cars.

Lube the contacts with Deoxit D5 or GN5. Good luck!


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Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 3:34 pm
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BMW2002Ti wrote:
Clean & adjust the contact points, so the faces have the most contact.

I like crocus or fine emery cloth to clean contact faces. Then, a small needle-nose plier to tighten & adjust the points for parallel contact. Kinda like cleaning and fitting old school ignition points, in cars.

Lube the contacts with Deoxit D5 or GN5. Good luck!


+1 in all respects.

Humid environments frequently cause issues such as these. A room dehumidifier may help. If that's impractical, toss a couple of desiccant bags in the bottom of the amp's cabinet. That might work.

Arjay

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Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 3:43 pm
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BMW2002Ti wrote:
Clean & adjust the contact points, so the faces have the most contact.

I like crocus or fine emery cloth to clean contact faces. Then, a small needle-nose plier to tighten & adjust the points for parallel contact. Kinda like cleaning and fitting old school ignition points, in cars.

Lube the contacts with Deoxit D5 or GN5. Good luck!


I sometime see this do not last or do not work. I should replace the jack.


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Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 4:29 pm
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Have been doing the cleaning with CRC and it does clean, but doesn't last as long as I'd like (as mentioned 4-6 weeks). Does Deoxit D5 have a residual that will extend the 'fix' before recurrence? Or is there another product to add after cleaning.

Seems as if cleaning/deoxidizing isn't my problem, but extending the period between cleaning is. The area that I live is not excessively humid.

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Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2016 10:42 pm
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IM4Tone, yes CAIG Deoxit cleans & lubricants. Use D100 or GN100 brush applicant for the contacts. It'll last longer and be less messy.

1.) 7 ml bottle will last you forever. Deoxit is great for all connectors. Like ones in cars, other home electronics.

https://www.amazon.com/DeoxITGOLD-Liqui ... caig+gn100

2.) If you still have issues, go for a Switchcraft jack.

https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/W-SC-L12A

3.) Or make a DIY shorted 1/4-inch plug. Get a plug and solder a short lead between center tang and outer ground tang. Plug this into jack --- and it will short-out the jack.


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Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 1:54 am
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IM4Tone wrote:


Seems as if cleaning/deoxidizing isn't my problem, but extending the period between cleaning is. The area that I live is not excessively humid.


Contact loose is protecting coat and anything you"ll try will not last longer. You need new jack.
You must never file a electrical contact except with a burnishing tools or a dollar paper. Using something more abrasive will ruin the contact protective coat.


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Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 2:05 am
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Stratele, I agree... not to touch contact surfaces, if the surfaces are intact. But, often they are not. They get oxidized to the degree that it the total metal-metal contact area is affected. Sometimes, there is electrolysis between them.

The only way to improve the action is to clean the two areas, so you get as much clean, un-oxidized surface area contact as possible.

It's the only way to save some of the more vintage jacks and switches. As the newly made items are not built to same electrical & mechanical standards as the original ones. And few NOS are available.

Crocus cloth or fine emery is ok for this work. Use a fine touch. He maybe able to save the jack without having to pull it and solder in a new one.

:)


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Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 2:12 am
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Switchraft jack are same quality as vintage jack.
I see some brand new jack with defective contact.


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Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 4:21 pm
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Thanks to all who responded!

No one really answered my original question about conductive grease..."Could a tiny dab of a contact grease on the "points" eliminate the recurrence (or at least make it much less frequent)? OR would this likely cause other problem(s)? If this would work, what product is recommended?", but gave other advice. I will get some of the Deoxit D5 since it has a residual lubricant in hopes that the points remain conductive much longer

For stratele52, this is not a vintage amp and is less than a year old. The oxidation is not difficult to remove and I've never had to resort to abrasives. That would be my last resort, as I do realize that this would eventually remove the plating and render the area more susceptible to further corrosion. FWIW, the brand of jack is Neutrik. Don't know if it's inferior, equal to, or better than Switchcraft, but in the few instances I've replaced jacks, it's always been with Switchcraft and probably will be for any future needs. I'm convinced that, at this time, jack replacement isn't necessary.

So when and if the poor ground returns (if the past is an indicator- in 4 to 6 weeks), I'll Deoxit and see how long that lasts.

Thanks again,
IM4Tone

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Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 5:44 pm
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I couldn't find a single Neutrik product in this piece of equipment......

Image

It was, however, loaded with Switchcraft stuff.

:wink:

Arjay

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Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 7:41 pm
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Is the CRC you are using just a cleaner or the "Cleaner/Lubricant" version which has a residual protection/lubricant component ?

I've used this one which is very good.
http://www.crcindustries.com.au/product ... -lubricant
Image

If that fails, replace the jack with a Switchcraft and it will probably never happen again, or at least it will eliminate the mechanics of the jack as an issue, but a poor physical contact is the usual culprit that then leads to the electrical problem.


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Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 8:26 pm
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Retroverbial wrote:
I couldn't find a single Neutrik product in this piece of equipment......

It was, however, loaded with Switchcraft stuff.

:wink:

Arjay


Arjay,

Mil spec'ed Erection Amplifier (pre-Viagra) --- from a B47. 5751 tubes under those shields. :)


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Image


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Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2016 8:44 pm
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No457 Snowy wrote:
Is the CRC you are using just a cleaner or the "Cleaner/Lubricant" version which has a residual protection/lubricant component ? .................

I believe it is just the cleaner.
Thanks

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Post subject: Re: Shorting Jacks on a new 5E3.
Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2016 12:36 am
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IM4Tone wrote:
Thanks to all who responded!

No one really answered my original question about conductive grease..."Could a tiny dab of a contact grease on the "points" eliminate the recurrence (or at least make it much less frequent)? OR would this likely cause other problem(s)? If this would work, what product is recommended?", but gave other advice. I will get some of the Deoxit D5 since it has a residual lubricant in hopes that the points remain conductive much longer

For stratele52, this is not a vintage amp and is less than a year old. The oxidation is not difficult to remove and I've never had to resort to abrasives. That would be my last resort, as I do realize that this would eventually remove the plating and render the area more susceptible to further corrosion. FWIW, the brand of jack is Neutrik. Don't know if it's inferior, equal to, or better than Switchcraft, but in the few instances I've replaced jacks, it's always been with Switchcraft and probably will be for any future needs. I'm convinced that, at this time, jack replacement isn't necessary.

So when and if the poor ground returns (if the past is an indicator- in 4 to 6 weeks), I'll Deoxit and see how long that lasts.

Thanks again,
IM4Tone


No answer about conductive because ;
1- Who knew this product ?
2- Who use it ?
3- Because conductive grease may not work very well. Jack could be short all the time.

I have conductive grease at home, at $14 a tube is more expensive than few Switchraft jacks and less reliable.

I can't find this jack in Neutrik product. Where and how do you see it is a Neutrik ?


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