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Post subject: Hot Rod Deluxe
Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2007 10:51 am
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The Fender Hot Rod Deluxe, a fine amp.


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Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 1:56 pm
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wow

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Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 3:24 pm
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2007 10:41 am
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Location: Rockville, MD
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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2007 11:28 am
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Location: Land Of Misfit Toys
It's BIG brother.....the Fender Hot Rod DeVille 4x10.....same circuitry basically....60 loud assed watts and moves some AIR!! Heavy as hell too!!!


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Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 12:55 pm
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Heavy as hell too!!!
I'll say !!!!!!!

Dat's my baby tho' !!!!!!!!!

Had a first generation blues deville w 4-10s but couldn't get the volume past 2 without moving the windows ,,loudest amp I 've ever owned And sweetest too !!!
would've been great for outdoor gigs or large venues
Sure hate I got rid of it tho' ..next best thing to a 59 bassman you can get

Nitro


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Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 7:53 pm
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:11 am
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Location: South Georgia
Speaking of the 410 and the bassman. I wonder what kind of justice woofers would do for a replacement to the 410's speakers? Or maybe just build a 4x10 woofer extension cabinet for alittle extra thump?


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Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 12:49 pm
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Location: Bloomfield, NJ
I have a HRD and Blues Deville 410. What can I say, they both give me the sound I want for the style I play. I use the 410 on most gigs, unless its a small room. Don't ask me why I am doing this, but I am getting ready to modify both amps upgrading the speakers and new tubes. Let you know how they sound.


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Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 1:14 pm
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Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2007 12:04 pm
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Location: Texas
HRD...Great amp. Even better after I upgraded to a set of JJ tubes.


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Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 10:28 am
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Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 9:19 am
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Why did you pick the 410 over the 212? Trying both I liked the tone of the 212 a little better, curious to hear your opinion...

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Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 10:38 am
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for me the 410 seems to have a little punch..
might just be my ears but I like the tone of the 10s
worked thru a twin reverb for years and wanted something a little different

Nitro


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Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 12:08 pm
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i have the 4 10 and i just didnt like how bassy the 2 12 got i like the 4 10 its a little easyer to over drive as i have the bluese deville only 2 channals so i dont have that burn like u guys with the regualer devilles and deluxes so i find that the 4 10s are just better for my application


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Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 12:40 pm
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I have the 2006 Limited Edition Hot Rod Deluxe in Laquered Tweed. Best sounding tube amp I have ever heard. :D


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Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2007 12:53 pm
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everyone swears by these amps i think they are great myself

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03 black stratocaster maple
05 50s RI strat (brownie)
06 american std telecaster (sunburst)
05 fender Blues Deville
68 fender bandmaster with 2x12 cab
69 fender bassman with 2x15 cab
73 music man HD130=

lots of stuff in my garage


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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 2:00 pm
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I'm having a problem with mine - it just started happening recently (i've only had the amp for about 4 months) - sometimes it switches channels randomly for a few seconds, like the switch is being clicked multiple times very quickly. ANyone else ever had this issue, or know what the cause might be? Any help is appreciated.

Love this amp - bummed that i'm already having issues with it though.


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Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 12:54 pm
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I'm having the same problem on my 10-year old HRDx, and though I haven't had it fixed yet, I believe I've found the answer.

From The Unofficial Fender Hot Rod Deluxe Owner's Guide!
By Justin Holton

http://studentweb.eku.edu/justin_holton ... stors.html

How to Replace +/- 16V 5W Resistors

"The 470 ohm 5W cement resistors in the +/- 16V supply are the cause of so many problems in the Hot Rod Deluxe/Deville it's unbelieveable. Are your channels randomly switching on you? Are you getting an uncontrollable squealing/feedback sound that appears after the amp's been on a while? Is the reverb dropping in and out?

The main problem is that the resistors get so hot that they form cold solder joints. Cold solder joints are caused by physically stressed leads that are subjected to vibration and repeated heating and cooling cycles. (They are very common on PCBs which use a wave soldering method like the Hot Rod Deluxe.) If your amp acts fine when you first turn it on, but after a few minutes starts showing the aformentioned symptoms, then you likely have one or two cold solder joints. These are characterized by a dry/dull appearance; a good solder joint will appear shiny and clean.

The DC voltage from the resistors power the channel switching relays, the effects loop opamps, and reverb opamps. Once the joints get hot they'll stop conducting for random periods of time. This is what causes the channels to switch and the reverb to drop out. The cold solder joints also cause your amp to "feedback" whether a guitar is plugged in or not—particularly the More Drive and Drive channels. I think this is actually some type of oscillation, but I don't know exactly why it's caused. Still, doing this procedure fixes the problem.

Another problem is how the resistors are prepped. Look at all the other resistors in your amp. The leads come straight out of the component, bend at a 90 degree angle somewhere on the lead, and then are soldered onto the PCB. The 5W resistor's leads are bent as soon as they come out of the body. You should never bend leads like this. This puts stress on the inside of the component and causes it to crack. Remember, some resistors could be burned up, cracked, and totally disfunctional and you'd never know from looking at the outside. The only way to test it is with a multimeter.

Now that you know why your amp's acting flaky, how can we fix it?

1. For a permanent fix you'll need to order a few parts. VintageJon, an extremely reliable tech at the FDP, wrote that Fender put out a bulletin recommending that these resistors be replaced with 330 ohm resistors of the same type—the old value was 470 ohms. Apparently Fender now uses 330 ohm resistors in newer amps to prevent this problem, but I haven't seem this implemented. Someone emailed me and said it was better to use a higher resistance rather than a low resistance, but I have not been able to confirm this yet. The disagreement is over how the resistor drops voltage. All the RadioShacks in my area do not carry any 5W resistors over 1Ω. Chances are yours won't either. It'd be good to call them first to save you the time and gas. The largest values I could find there were 10 ohms! Click here to buy better quality power resistors right off of Mouser. If you have trouble with link, then do a search from the main page. Its Part # is 280-CR5-470-RC.

2. Drain the power supply's filter caps! This is for your own safety. If you don't know how click here. Your life may depend on it!

3. If you've drained the filter caps, and I hope you did, the back panel should already be removed. Now remove the chicken head knobs, black screws, washers, nuts, etc. Whatever you have to do to get under the PCB. It's also a good idea to remove the green ground wire that's on the same side as the input jacks. This will make getting under the PCB easier. Be sure to store these parts safely so none are lost.

4. Look for the two problematic resistors (R78, R79). They are in at the bottom-center of the PCB. (They look like two white blocks, and are right next to the bias pot.) Now that you've found them on top, you'll need to find the location of their leads on the bottom of the PCB. This is essential if your fix is temporary or permanent.

5. (a) For a quick fix, "touch up" the solder joints by adding a little solder to all four joints. This will keep you problem free for awhile, but not for good. For a permanent fix: unsolder the two 470 ohm 5W resistors. You may need to clip the tips of any leads under the PCB—if they're bent in a hook shape. (Probably all of them.) If not, it'll make this step more difficult as they get hung up when you try to pull the resistors out. (b) Be sure to remove as much solder as possible with a solder sucking device. If not, you could damage the solder points which are just a thin piece of foil glued to the PCB. Then you'll find yourself running a lot of jumpers—like me. Also, it can get awkward trying to unsolder on one side and remove on the other. It's always nice if you can keep someone nearby to assist you.

6. Take the new 330 ohm resistors and bend the leads—but not right where they come out of the component. This is the proper way to "prep" a component. This will take stress off of the inside of the resistor, which will keep it from cracking and failing prematurely. (a) NOTE: The "prep" in the picture to the right is exaggerated for clarity. You don't need to bend your leads that far out, though you can if you want to. Just don't bend them right where they come out of the body. That's the most important thing to remember. (b) A good trick is to place a miniature screwdriver right against the body of the resistor and bend the lead around the screwdriver at a 90 degree angle. (c) This prep will be far closer to the body than you could get it with your fingers, and it will look more professional than any wildly prepped leads bent further out.

7. If you have some Silicon Rubber Sealer apply some under the resistor. Use it to prop the resistor up off of the PCB a little. This will help keep the resistor from vibrating when it's trying to dissipating heat, which in turn will prevent cold joints from reforming. Solder the resistors into place. NOTE: Be sure to give the silicon 24 hours to cure before turning on your Hot Rod. Once it has cured it will be completely inert to electrical current.

8. Screw everything (PCB, jacks, knobs) back into place. If you've done everything correctly you should be problem free for a long time.


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