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Post subject: Could anyone ID this speaker please
Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:24 am
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Dear all,

my Fender Silverface Twin Reverb came with these speakers, one of which no longer seems to be working.
I'm looking for manufacturer and type, would anyone be able to help?

They look similar to a picture of Utah speakers I found on the web, but I'm not exactly sure. Also, the first three digits of the manufacturer code say "005" on this one, whereas for Utah, it should be 328?

Thanks for any input & best regards!

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Post subject: Re: Could anyone ID this speaker please
Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 6:09 am
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volksen wrote:
Dear all,

my Fender Silverface Twin Reverb came with these speakers, one of which no longer seems to be working.
I'm looking for manufacturer and type, would anyone be able to help?

They look similar to a picture of Utah speakers I found on the web, but I'm not exactly sure. Also, the first three digits of the manufacturer code say "005" on this one, whereas for Utah, it should be 328?

Thanks for any input & best regards!

Image


How do you check the speaker ?
Ohms reading ; ?
Wires ; ?


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Post subject: Re: Could anyone ID this speaker please
Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 8:19 am
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volksen, welcome to the Forum! :D


http://tech.volkermeitz.de/styled/files/dsc05190.jpg


Those are Pyle ceramic speakers. Pyle's EIA code = 1098. C-1098-1-11. C = Ceramic. Pyle. Made 1971 (or 81), 11th week.

Utah made Pyle speakers, IIRC... starting in the 1970's.


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Post subject: Re: Could anyone ID this speaker please
Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 12:46 pm
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Thanks a bunch for the info!

I was under the impression that the number to look for always has 6 digits, the 3 first of which constitute the manufacturer code, and that any other number on an item is proprietary, denoting type, serial no. or whatever. Obviously, that number (005379) has a different meaning here...

Anyway, I bought the amp not too long ago, used it couple of times at moderate volume, didn't even take it to a gig or something... and now I find that one of the speakers just died on me (the two terminals went open circuit). Do you have an idea what might have happened physically? I'm trying to find out if there's a chance to get it fixed, or if I'm in for an exchange...

In case of the latter, that would open another can of worms, namely choosing a type to match the remaining speaker... :mrgreen:

BTW. I read somewhere that Utah became a part of Pyle, at some point. But maybe they just made OEM products for them, or something.


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Post subject: Re: Could anyone ID this speaker please
Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 1:14 pm
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The "005379" markings reflect Fender's in-house P/N for this speaker.

In all candor there is nothing sonically remarkable about the Pyle speaker (just as with the Utah's and the Oxford's which pre-date them). You'd be better served by replacing both speakers with something more befitting the amp's tonal potential. They'd need to be rated for 75 watts each at a minimum. Many of the modern Eminence speakers would do well in your amp, contingent upon your playing style and musical taste.

Should you choose, re-coning the blown Pyle driver will cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $75 or $80. And if one blew due to geriatric fatigue, the other is likely not far behind -- best to have them both refurbished.

Arjay

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"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY


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Post subject: Re: Could anyone ID this speaker please
Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 4:33 pm
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Arjay, thanks for your advice!

Actually, I'm a keyboarder, I play my Rhodes piano through the amp (no wonder it sounds great, since the Rhodes R&D people used that very amp for monitoring).
Will check with some colleagues re. speaker configuration.
I've read about some people mixing different types in one amp - is that something you'd advise at all, or is it a rather nerdy thing to do... or both? :mrgreen:

For the time being, I might even leve the amp as-is, except for adding an 8-Ohms resistor of appropriate wattage in place of the deat speaker, to load the o/p stage correctly. You never push the amp too hard with a Rhodes, so I guess I could do with one speaker volume wise...

What exactly do you mean by a "blown" speaker? A broken wire in the voice coil? Or anything that could be repaired easily.
I've worked on horn drivers for Leslie speakers, thus maybe I would qualify to try and service it myself...? If that made sense in the first place. Not going to go into reconing though, never done that before, and you have to draw the line somewhere :mrgreen:


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Post subject: Re: Could anyone ID this speaker please
Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 5:23 am
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Retroverbial wrote:

In all candor there is nothing sonically remarkable about the Pyle speaker...



Arjay


+1

While I don't normally poke my head in to the amp forums all that often and while I'll usually be the first to admit that "sound" is often subjective at best, I have to second Arjay's comment there. For all the years I've been into music and audio, I have NEVER been a fan of Pyle speakers (regardless of the branding). In the broadest general sense they tend to have a limited frequency response, tend to have rather low sensitivity ratings and to me they always sound rather "mushy" (not a lot of definition) when compared with better brands. I do very much like Eminence myself...got them in my L5 and the 2 x 12 cab I use for my old Bandmaster and they have served me well, however for an old school Twin, if you're able to lay a couple of coins down for it, I'd actually suggest going with a set of Jensen's...maybe something like their Blackbird's (pricey, but worth it). JBL and EV are also great, but for an old Twin (or even a new one), I'd really go with Jensen's.

This is obviously just my own opinion but seriously...if you have a blown speaker anyways, I'd just dump those Pyles and go with some better speakers.


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Post subject: Re: Could anyone ID this speaker please
Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 1:36 am
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volksen wrote:
What exactly do you mean by a "blown" speaker?


Easy enough to explain.

No audio from the cone indicates that the voice coil is open, electrically. This is easily confirmed with a DVM set to "Ω" and positioning the meter's leads across the terminals on the speaker's frame. If no reading is observed, that indicates a lack of conductivity within the coil. The two causes are: 1) the speaker has been over-exposed to heavy bass frequencies which resulted in extreme cone excursions that stretched the lead-in wires from the frame-mounted terminals to the underside of the cone beyond their breaking point, or 2) the speaker has seen severe high frequencies at very high power levels which have literally melted the wire within the coil and burned the windings open. The first cause can sometimes be remedied by splicing some appropriately-sized wire to the existing lead-ins but the only recourse for the second cause is a complete re-cone.

If you intend to use this amp for a Rhodes (or any other keyboard instrument) you should strongly consider installing speakers that can comfortably withstand such a demanding application. Suitable candidates would be the EV-SRO 12, Cetec-Gauss's PS12, or Eminence's Commonwealth 12. These drivers all feature high power-handling capability, heavy-duty surrounds and suspensions, and massive magnet structures. I would not recommend bass guitar speakers simply because they lack the high-end response necessary for realistic keyboard reproduction.

Arjay

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"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY


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