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Post subject: Re: Build Thread! - 2 x 12 Closed Back Cab
Posted: Thu May 31, 2012 6:24 pm
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tyronne wrote:
Looks great Hollis!
Just read all the posts as one day I'm going to attempt this type of build too.


Thanks! Let me know if ever I can help!

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Post subject: Re: Build Thread! - 2 x 12 Closed Back Cab
Posted: Thu May 31, 2012 6:35 pm
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Here's what I got today. I have mounted the speakers and hooked 'em up. It works!!! My little Rebel 20 sounded like a thundering bohemoth(except for that massive buzzing coming from the barely secured back).

I didn't get my jack plate made today; I was swamped at work. Last day of the month, so we try to get as much work billed as possible.

Right now I just have some el-cheapo speakers in there. My friend at work gave 'em to me. They came from a, I hate to say it........a Crate 4x12 :oops:
But really it sounds great! I even hooked up my DRRI to it and I actually think it sounded better than the stock Jensen, even with the back heaving and vibrating with every chug! I can't wait to get this thing air tight and secured, and put some good speakers in it.

Well, here it is:
Image
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2010 American Deluxe Strat Sunset Metallic - Lindy Fralin Blues Specials in the neck and middle, Dimarzio AT-1 humbucker in the bridge.
PRS Custom 22 with solid rosewood neck
Mesa/Boogie Electra Dyne 1x12 combo
DRRI


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Post subject: Re: Build Thread! - 2 x 12 Closed Back Cab
Posted: Thu May 31, 2012 10:32 pm
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Pretty slick, Hollis!

I always "test-fire" my cabs before Tolexing to check the enclosure for buzzes, rattles, or other sonic effluvia. It's easier to correct construction issues before any covering is applied.

I think you'll find that those SLM speakers are often pretty decent -- better even than the Crate amps they were removed from.

Rawk on!

8)

Arjay

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Post subject: Re: Build Thread! - 2 x 12 Closed Back Cab
Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 1:57 am
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Hollis. Just where is the air-port?
Toppscore

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Post subject: Re: Build Thread! - 2 x 12 Closed Back Cab
Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 4:05 am
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I was thinking the same thing. If you are closing the back then shouldn't there be a port somewhere to allow the speaker to move air?

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Post subject: Re: Build Thread! - 2 x 12 Closed Back Cab
Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 2:59 pm
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Great work Hollis. If you're thinking about the 2 tone w/ piping for that cab, check out
what we built for Larry's Egnater on the JVforum. That cab is for 2-10s.
I'm sure Retro can 'walk you through it' and I'll 'pipe in' too if you need it. The piping isn't all that difficult and your attention to detail should produce a great looking/sounding cabinet.


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Post subject: Re: Build Thread! - 2 x 12 Closed Back Cab
Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 3:08 pm
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Porting is necessary only if the cab needs to be tuned to a specific resonant frequency -- often for use with bass and/or keyboard instruments. It's noteworthy that Leo did not port the small-box dual-speaker cabs for the Showman, Bandmaster, Bassman, and Tremolux. Only later, when the vertically-oriented big box cabs were fielded, were ports added.

Arjay

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Post subject: Re: Build Thread! - 2 x 12 Closed Back Cab
Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 6:57 pm
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Retroverbial wrote:
Porting is necessary only if the cab needs to be tuned to a specific resonant frequency -- often for use with bass and/or keyboard instruments. It's noteworthy that Leo did not port the small-box dual-speaker cabs for the Showman, Bandmaster, Bassman, and Tremolux. Only later, when the vertically-oriented big box cabs were fielded, were ports added. Arjay



Interesting. I am starring at my 1963 Fender Tremelox 2x12 Speaker Cabinet
and my 1994 Fender Tone Master 2x12 Speaker Cabinet.
I cannot locate exterior ports, so I assumed there were ports within the baffle.
Hollis' had no baffle ports, either. So, learn something new each day.

To PORT, or NOT To PORT ~ That is the question. Thanks. Toppscore 8)

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Post subject: Re: Build Thread! - 2 x 12 Closed Back Cab
Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 7:12 pm
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Actually, unported cab often make for punchier, faster response. The internal cubic volume is what is important. I've made a bunch of JBL-loaded sub-woofers with no ports, that respond pretty well. Very tight bass. For hi-fi use.

3-4 cubic feet internal space needed for one of my favorite speakers the JBL 136A. With no port and hand wound chokes and motor-run caps in the crossover.

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Post subject: Re: Build Thread! - 2 x 12 Closed Back Cab
Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 7:27 pm
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It there any significant change in the tone based on whether the cabinet is oriented vertically or horizontally?

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Post subject: Re: Build Thread! - 2 x 12 Closed Back Cab
Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 7:31 pm
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BMW2002Ti wrote:
Actually, unported cab often make for punchier, faster response. The internal cubic volume is what is important. I've made a bunch of JBL-loaded sub-woofers with no ports, that respond pretty well. Very tight bass. For hi-fi use.
3-4 cubic feet internal space needed for one of my favorite speakers the JBL 136A. With no port and hand wound chokes and motor-run caps in the crossover.


BMW. Have you ever tried a convertable or having a port/no port option
so you can study the differences?

Toppscore 8)

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Post subject: Re: Build Thread! - 2 x 12 Closed Back Cab
Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 8:14 pm
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mhowell wrote:
It there any significant change in the tone based on whether the cabinet is oriented vertically or horizontally?


The vertical cab generally projects better in a live environment. Also, it requires a smaller stage footprint -- desirable where space on a band riser is limited. There's no real change in tone per se that I'm aware of.

Arjay

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Post subject: Re: Build Thread! - 2 x 12 Closed Back Cab
Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 8:30 pm
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" Have you ever tried a convertable or having a port/no port option? "

Topp, that exactly how you properly build a ported enclosure. I put a two-piece movable 2-4 inch (depending on the speaker) cylinder in cylinder into the cab. Then, slide the cylinders to increase and decrease the volume of the port and listen to the response. When I hit upon the best response with the least amount of boominess--- measure the dimensions and cut a ported duct to those dimensions. The volume of the port depends on speaker, amp dampening factor, and use of insulation in the cab. So the empirical or experimental way to find the best volume for the duct is the best of each cab and speaker set.

You can close off the hole for the duct to see how the cab responds to no duct--- prior to permanent fixing. And the wood used and how the cab is assemble, plus the overall dimensions (tall or squat) also effects response.


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Post subject: Re: Build Thread! - 2 x 12 Closed Back Cab
Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 8:33 pm
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I made the jack plate today at work. I drew it up on the PC, then cut it out on the laser and bent it on the brake press. I went ahead and made 5 of them while I was at it. It's made from 18 ga.(1.2mm) 2B stainless steel.

Image

The laser etched the text in there also.

Image

Bent them on the brake press:

Image
Image
Image
Image
Problem: I had a slight gap on one edge which caused the weld to look pretty bad. So, I've decided to use this one as a prototype to cut out and rout the back for the jack plate. You can see the gap in the previous pic. I didn't bother to clean the welds since I'm gonna weld up another one Monday and replace it.

I use the jack plate as a template to draw my lines:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Wire it all up:

Image

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2010 American Deluxe Strat Sunset Metallic - Lindy Fralin Blues Specials in the neck and middle, Dimarzio AT-1 humbucker in the bridge.
PRS Custom 22 with solid rosewood neck
Mesa/Boogie Electra Dyne 1x12 combo
DRRI


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Post subject: Re: Build Thread! - 2 x 12 Closed Back Cab
Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 9:12 pm
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Hollis Prince wrote:
I made the jack plate today at work. I drew it up on the PC, then cut it out on the laser and bent it on the brake press. I went ahead and made 5 of them while I was at it. It's made from 18 ga.(1.2mm) 2B stainless steel.
The laser etched the text in there also.
Bent them on the brake press:
Problem: I had a slight gap on one edge which caused the weld to look pretty bad. So, I've decided to use this one as a prototype to cut out and rout the back for the jack plate. You can see the gap in the previous pic. I didn't bother to clean the welds since I'm gonna weld up another one Monday and replace it.
I use the jack plate as a template to draw my lines:
Wire it all up:


Hollis, you really spent some time on your speaker cabinet jack plates. Wow!
Looks good. How much do you charge per hour or per plate?

I could sell you some of these for $10 if you like? :lol:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Double-1-4-inch-Switched-Speakon-Speaker-Jack-Plate-/360378138648?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e8360018

Really, how much time and money goes into your project?
and you also have the equipment to make the pieces . . . .
I know there is passion and love, gotta admire that. Doing what you love.

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