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Posted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 1:49 pm
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Indeed. About $75 for the Champ "back in the day". $90 or so to buy the trem-equipped Vibro Champ.

And there's no practical method of adding a standby without irreversibly-modding the chassis that I know of. On the Princetons and Princeton Reverbs the "polarity" switch can be used once the amp has been converted to use a 3-conductor power cord. But I'm not gonna drill a hole in my minty Bronco under any circumstances.

Bummer!

Arjay

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Posted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 2:00 pm
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FYI: The Bendix made 6106 rectifier is a mil spec, slow-warmup verson of the 5Y3GT. It can be used in Champs. It will also work in Princetons and Deluxes that used the 5Y3GT.


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Posted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 3:41 pm
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Whoooeeee......not cheap though, B-Man!

https://www.tubeworld.com/5y3gt.htm

I found a few for less but still much more than an NOS 5Y3GT.

Arjay

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Posted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 4:04 pm
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shimmilou wrote:
Hi filerj,

Lot of great suggestions and info here, these guys are great. I have a question. Does your DRRI have a tube rectifier or solid state rectifier? If a tube rectifier, you might want to try a new one, it could be crackling. If a solid state rectifier, you really need a standby switch as Retroverbial pointed out. I would want one anyway, just seems right. I wonder if a standby can be fitted on your amp. :idea:


Shimmilou, the amp is a Rivera era Deluxe reverb II not a DR reissue. When I bought it is was surprised it had no standby, back in the day I would just turn the volume down and leave it on between sets. I have seen mods where a standby switch was added, and even though I don't think I would ever sell it, I did want to leave ir original, but maybe adding a standby wouldn't be a bad idea. I just wouldn't like drilling through the face plate like the ones I saw.
filerj


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Posted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 4:10 pm
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Arjay, Yeah... everyone knows about those great Bendix Red Bank tubes, now. I got a bunch of NOS/NIB Heintz & Kauffman labeled 5Y3WGT (which were really Bendix 6106 relabeled) from Ebay, a few years ago... for $15 a bottle.

One thing I can say... these puppes last FOREVER. I've had one in my Champion 800 woodie for over 10 years. Play the amp prolly every other day at "10."

BTW... I run mil spec Red RCA 5693's in place of the 6SJ7 in the Champion 800. Just 4-5 years ago, I was able to buy NOS for $5 in original box. Now, I see that they go for $25 each on Ebay. 8^(

It's a great tube, if you ever get a chance to try one of these old Champions or Princetons.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/thetubestore_2130_742314


http://www.tdpri.com/forum/amp-central- ... -6sj7.html


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Posted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 4:47 pm
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As suggested by all, check with new valves and may be new supply caps.
I remember a similar problem on a tape recorder, it was 1 cap, which transmits the signal between 2 stages, that was not good.
If you are not familiar with repairing, let your amp to good tech. He will follow the signal with an oscillo equiped with 100:1 probes HV in order to find which stage produces the "noise".
By the way the DRII is equipped with solid state rectifier. The warm-up of valve is less critical than cold down because at hot condition the filament is still hot and can emitt. It is like a old TV that you swich off and you still see a lighly spot in the middle.

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Posted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 5:05 pm
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And there's no practical method of adding a standby without irreversibly-modding the chassis that I know of.

Retroverbial

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Yes you can use a single DPDT switch to have standby AND on/off switch in the same switch. And works fine

I post you a picture diagram tomorow.


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Posted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 5:06 pm
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If any one is interested, you can replace your existing off-on switch with an "off-standby-on" switch. I know that Carling makes them. I used one on my BJr, no drilling required. You just have to route one of the wires for the B+ to half of the switch and back to the board, the other half of the switch switches the power. :idea:

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Posted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 6:21 pm
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Thanks stratele and shimmilou!

I think I might just have one of those switches bouncing around in my spares box. I'll look into this week.

Arjay

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Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 2:33 am
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If any one is interested, you can replace your existing off-on switch with an "off-standby-on" switch. I know that Carling makes them. I used one on my BJr, no drilling required. You just have to route one of the wires for the B+ to half of the switch and back to the board, the other half of the switch switches the power.

--shimmilou

Yes shimmilou, Carling is one of my choice but I have another cheaper one.
I orderd some Carling from West laboratories, few years ago

Two sketches are coming this morning. My wife is sleeping and my camera is under is pillow ( ah!ah!)


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Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 3:40 am
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Image


This swith is a "no name " less expensive switch than Carling
Midle ;amp off
Down; standby
Up ; play

Image

This is the Carling switch you can buy at westlabs.com the model is Double Triple Throw Pole Progressive

or from Carling distibutor part no 2GG51-73

This switch look better in their position than the cheaper one

Down ; amp off
midle : standby
Up ; play


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Post subject: Standby Switch
Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 6:47 am
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Stratele52, the second switch is the one I have (Carling P#2GG51-73). I didn't have a reference handy yesterday, but here is a link.

http://www.newark.com/carling-technologies/2gg51-73/toggle-switch/dp/54H0425

Nice drawings, always helpful to a visual guy like me. :) The first switch that you show won't work for two reasons. One is you must go through the "off" position to get from one "on" to the other "on" position, I would imagine that could cause some problems. And second, that switch would have to be either position "on", not both on at the same time. If you switch to one "on" position the other "on" position will be "off". Check it with your meter, it's either position "on", not both (not a progressive switch). :)

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Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 7:09 am
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shimmilou,

I know the first swich have to go to middle (off) before go to play position. There 's no problem , tubes heaters stay hot and it's ok to receive high voltage when you go to up position

I use this one on my Garnet amp since many years. And I see tubes amps builder use this way too. Less expensive than Carling switchwes.

If I make a mistake with my drawing I can't see

1- In the middle, all contacts are open
2- Up or down AC power go to transformer: left side of the switch
3- Down position standby contact is close = play, right side
4- Up position stanby contact is open = standby, right side


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Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 7:33 am
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Your drawing is good, my mistake. I should have looked at it more closely, you are right, my fault, sorry about that. :oops: Maybe you could post a drawing of the Carling switch wiring (it's a little different), you do a good job with your helpful drawings. :)

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Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 8:20 am
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Yeah is not easy to understand how it's work this switch. Myself , first time I see it ; Hey what's that ? And take time to see.

Ok for Carling switch drawing, I'll do a sketch. Easy, one side of AC on contact no 1 and standby on contact no 2

Thank's for appreciate my work, and I should say I appreciate what you write in this forum


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