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Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 2:55 pm
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OracleGreen wrote:
Thanks for the welcome and the straight up advice, and sorry if I rode in on a high horse.


No problem, OG.

We've all "been there - done that" with vintage gear. And I doubt that there's anyone here who doesn't want to see your Pro Reverb "back on the road" making super-nice noises. Preserve what you can, replace what you have to, and rock on. Be sure to save all replaced parts for "posterity".

Arjay

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Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 11:55 pm
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Yep, totally agree with Arjay. And that is good news, about your decision to get the amp up and running, yourself ! OG, your salutation, reminded me of that Nick Lowe piece of music" What's so bad about peace,love and understanding". I've sung that piece many times at festivals and churches. Keep up the research and good work ! Art

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Posted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 9:00 am
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Retroverbial wrote:
OracleGreen wrote:
Thanks for the welcome and the straight up advice, and sorry if I rode in on a high horse.


No problem, OG.

We've all "been there - done that" with vintage gear. And I doubt that there's anyone here who doesn't want to see your Pro Reverb "back on the road" making super-nice noises. Preserve what you can, replace what you have to, and rock on. Be sure to save all replaced parts for "posterity".

Arjay
Hey man,like Arjay said we've all been there...especially since the "internet/originalcondition/worth boo-coo bucks" phenom. :D
We would ALL like to keep our stuff orignal and believe me it hurts to start pulling yellow Astron caps or Blue molded Mallorys out of an amp that have been in since somebody soldered them in under Leo Fender's watch.
But remember this if you never remember another thing I ever say:
Leo Fender designed and built guitars and amps for working musicians that sounded great,looked great,and could be repaired,to keep that musician playing.


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Posted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 9:59 am
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Rebelsoul wrote:
But remember this if you never remember another thing I ever say:
Leo Fender designed and built guitars and amps for working musicians that sounded great,looked great,and could be repaired,to keep that musician playing.


+1

Arjay

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"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY


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Posted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 4:09 pm
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I like yalls attitude. I think Ive found an internet home. Thanks!

I havent crammed this much information in my head in decades but Im really enjoying working on this amp. I bought a fancy Weller soldering iron that is temperature controllable to 850 degF. I think maybe it was fancier than I needed now that Ive had a chance to work with it because I just leave it turned all the way up when Im using it. I made a jumped cable with a resistor inline to drain the caps for my first project so I could work on it safely. Then I replaced all the caps as described in Webers dvd. I cleaned all the pots and the tube sockets. Retensioned the jacks. Replaced the rectifier tube and the two power tubes. I dont know if they were bad or not but I figured if they werent then I could use them as spares.

I havent turned it on yet because I still havent found the right fuse for it. Its suppose to be a 2 amp 125v slow blow right? The only ones Ive found so far are 250v. So Im afraid to turn it on until someone lets me know what the right fuse is. Guitar Center doesnt carry fuses or knows anything about them. What is the right fuse? It just says 2 amp slo blo but not the volts. I assume its 125v but Im old enough to know better than to assume anything anymore. Especially when theres electricity involved.


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Posted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 4:42 pm
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OC, that fuse is fine. Most fuses are rated for 120 and 240 volt use. I usually get mine at the hardware store. Art

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Posted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 7:17 pm
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Thank you!
I went and got a fuse and powered it up but nothing happened. The light comes on and stays on which is more than it did before but no sound. I checked my speaker connections and they seem fine. I didnt smell anything or hear anything odd or anything. It didnt blow the fuse. The rectifier tube lights up but not any of the others. I won a Fluke 87 multimeter off ebay but Im still waiting for it to arrive but I wouldnt know what to check with it anyway. What do yall think it could be?


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Posted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 7:59 pm
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Hey OC, the Fluke 87 is good for amp work. I use a 87&83. Hope you get the owner's manual, otherwise I'd contact Fluke. Any way, seems like the filament(heater) circuit has a problem. After discharging the caps, I would make a visual check of all of the green wires following the pilot light. There are two twisted wires going to each tube socket. You want to make sure they are all securely soldered to the sockets. Also I'd make sure the green-yellow wire from the power trans is securely soldered to the lug or soldered to the chassis. When you get the meter a continuity check of that circuit will probably show the problem. The fact that the pilot light is working, tells us that there is some filament voltage. Do you know any of the history of this particular amp ? You know what I mean, was it working before you got it ? Art

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Posted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 8:48 pm
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I got it from a second hand store and It was dead when I bought it but I only paid $125 so I think I have plenty of room for repairs before I lose out. I will check the wiring like you said and report back after I get the multimeter. OG


Last edited by OracleGreen on Fri Dec 10, 2010 8:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 8:51 pm
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OracleGreen wrote:
I only paid $125 so I think I have plenty of room for repairs before I lose out.


It would've been a bargain at three times that price!

Arjay

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Posted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 9:12 pm
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It gets even better. After I bought it the man tells me they threw a smaller one in the trash so I immediately went dumpster diving. They threw a Harmony H410 in the dumpster. I took it home and plug it in and it works fine. The tolex is all torn up and it had some rock and roll stickers and decals on it but it worked. I cant imagine why someone would throw away any working amp. I guess they thought it was too ugly to sell. It was a very very good day.

I see you live around Tombstone. I use to work as the blacksmith at the OK Corral.


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Posted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 11:27 pm
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OracleGreen wrote:
I see you live around Tombstone. I use to work as the blacksmith at the OK Corral.


Cool!

We've played Big Nose Kate's periodically. Also the Crystal Palace and Johnny Ringo's.

Arjay

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"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY


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Posted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 4:34 pm
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That was it! I followed the green wires and sure enough one of them wasnt secure. You couldnt tell by just looking but when I move it around it came out of the pin hole. It didnt look like it had hardly any solder on it so I guess it just wasnt done right at the factory. I soldered it back nice and it worked. Wow, that was fun. Thanks for the help! I think I will play this one for a few weeks and then sell it. Its more amp than I need since Im just a bedroom player.
I really want to find another broke one and see if I can fix it too. I already tore apart the little Harmony (even though it worked) and found some stuff that wasnt right. There was electrical tape where someone spliced a new power plug in. So I took that apart and solder it point to point. Thanks again!


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Posted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 5:15 pm
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OracleGreen wrote:
Its more amp than I need since Im just a bedroom player.


Mebbe having a gig-ready amp with suitable "street cred" would encourage you to broaden your horizons beyond being a "boudoir balladeer"......

:mrgreen:

Arjay

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Posted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 6:48 pm
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Uh Oh, Arjay ! Someone left the gate open and another one got into the " amp-repair oats."
That's good news OG ! How does everything work and sound on the amp ? Glad you put the discharge jumper together. Another useful tool is the light bulb in series current limiter. Great for working on amps with a short or initial power-up of new power caps. It's easily built with parts from the hardware store. Keep at it. But be SAFE !!! Art

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Last edited by aclempoppi on Sun Dec 12, 2010 11:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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