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Post subject: VINTAGE 1967 PRO REVERB IS IT THE SAME SIZE AS A 65 OR 66
Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 9:18 pm
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HELLO EVERY ONE !!!!I just bought myself a VINTAGE1967 PRO REVERB BLACKFACE.Ibought it from GUITAR CENTER COLUMBUS OHIO. I havent recieved it yet i should have it Monday or possibly this Friday. They are shipping it to Buffalo Newyork GUITAR CENTERas im from right across the border in ONTARIO CANADA . Because GUITAR CENTERSreturn policy of 30 days is amazing thats why i decided to buy this blindly. Imean the COLUMBUS GUITAR CENTER had a terrible pic of this amp,They said it was all original except for the grill and it sounds perfect!!!!! Anyway i was going to buy(well i was bidding) on a 1966 PRO REVERB and lost at $2650 . It was the prettiest cleanist all original vintage amp I ever seen. Now after looking at some pics it looks like the 1966 PRO REVERBS cabinet is bigger. IS that just the quality of the pic ARE they all the same size spec by spec 1965-1967 pro reverb blackface ALL THE SAME OR DIFFERENT
(THANKS !!!!!!


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Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:46 pm
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The respective catalogs (both 65/66 and 66/67) show them to be the same dimensions -- 19.5" H x 26.25" W x 10" D. They'll both be the AB165 circuit. The Pro Reverb's cab remained the same up until 1970 when (apparently) the depth was increased to 10.5".

HTH

Arjay

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"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY


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Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 5:16 am
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I replied to your other post,since I own a '66 Pro Reverb....and like Arjay said,they're the same.
When you get it,have a good tech check the filter caps,if original they should be changed,that's most everyone's opinion.
A vintage amp in original condition can need some minor work done at times even if it's in good shape...electronic components that are 40+ years old can fail....but think of it like a vintage car,maintainence is a good thing to keep it in top running shape...I think you'll love it.


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Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2010 1:59 am
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Retroverbial wrote:
The respective catalogs (both 65/66 and 66/67) show them to be the same dimensions -- 19.5" H x 26.25" W x 10" D. They'll both be the AB165 circuit. The Pro Reverb's cab remained the same up until 1970 when (apparently) the depth was increased to 10.5".

HTH

Arjay
Thanks DUDE!!!! 8) 8) 8)


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Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2010 2:03 am
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Rebelsoul wrote:
I replied to your other post,since I own a '66 Pro Reverb....and like Arjay said,they're the same.
When you get it,have a good tech check the filter caps,if original they should be changed,that's most everyone's opinion.
A vintage amp in original condition can need some minor work done at times even if it's in good shape...electronic components that are 40+ years old can fail....but think of it like a vintage car,maintainence is a good thing to keep it in top running shape...I think you'll love it.
THANKS!! What problems should I WATCH FOR ?


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Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 9:06 am
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Congrats, on a potentially great amp. I take you have not fired-up the thing yet? Have anyone else at GC claimed to use the amp recently? Call me an old-time solder-sniffing geek, but I ALWAYS use a Variac when turning on ANY vintage unit which may have not seen AC for awhile.

Two ways to do this. One: If your pretty sure the 'lytics are not dried not & just want to see if the amp works... replace any indirect heated tube rectifier with a direct-heated one. Like replace the OEM GZ34/5AR4 or 5U4GB with a 5Y3GT (for now, NO GUITARS PLUGGED IN, VOLUMES AT ZERO). Speakers plugged in. Start at 80 VAC and slowly crank the Variac up over a few minutes. Visually check for any distress in tubes. Esp check for any odd smells of electric parts over-heating (versus dust burning). Fuse no pop? All OK? Turn off unit. Replace 5Y3GT with stock rectifier. Now try out amp with guitar.

Two: If you want to re-form the 'lytics, mainly because the amp has been sitting for more than a year... Replace any indirect heated rectifier with direct heated one. Use Variac. Start at 80 VAC and crank up in 10 VAC increments every 30min-1hour until you hit 120 VAC. Check for signs of electric distress or tubes overheating. NO GUITARS PLUGGED IN. VOLUME(S) AT ZERO. Speakers plugged in.

I usually replace ALL 'lytics (including bypass caps & esp BIAS power supply) on ANY amp that seems to have caps older than 15-20 years. I usually use Sprague Atoms. Keep mfd values in power supply as close to original as possible. You can go UP in voltage rating, if the bigger caps will fit under the hood. I try to use higher voltage rated bypass caps. Like 25mfd/50 VDC rated ones for orignal 25md/25 VDC. These withstand heat better and can tolerate today's higher outlet voltages.

Note on Bias power supply: I replace the single diode, if it looks stock. UF4004 usually works fine for this position.

These are "tricks" I picked up from guys that restore vintage hi-fi as well as guitar amps. A properly restored PS and Bias power supply can increase the life of the entire amp for years & years. Bypass caps helps to give the amp bass and transients it may have lost through dried-up old parts.

Worry about tubes, once the PS and Bias power supply are known to be stable & quiet. It maybe a good idea to check the idle BIAS of the power tubes before putting the amp through its paces. For an ap of this vintage and potential value, a trip to a good amp tech, when you get the amp, maybe worth it. In terms of long, worry-free use. As Leo intended...

Just my 2¢ worth. Good luck with the new baby!


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Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 9:17 am
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BMW2002Ti wrote:
Congrats, on a potentially great amp. I take you have not fired-up the thing yet? Have anyone else at GC claimed to use the amp recently? Call me an old-time solder-sniffing geek, but I ALWAYS use a Variac when turning on ANY vintage unit which may have not seen AC for awhile.

Two ways to do this. One: If your pretty sure the 'lytics are not dried not & just want to see if the amp works... replace any indirect heated tube rectifier with a direct-heated one. Like replace the OEM GZ34/5AR4 or 5U4GB with a 5Y3GT (for now, NO GUITARS PLUGGED IN, VOLUMES AT ZERO). Speakers plugged in. Start at 80 VAC and slowly crank the Variac up over a few minutes. Visually check for any distress in tubes. Esp check for any odd smells of electric parts over-heating (versus dust burning). Fuse no pop? All OK? Turn off unit. Replace 5Y3GT with stock rectifier. Now try out amp with guitar.

Two: If you want to re-form the 'lytics, mainly because the amp has been sitting for more than a year... Replace any indirect heated rectifier with direct heated one. Use Variac. Start at 80 VAC and crank up in 10 VAC increments every 30min-1hour until you hit 120 VAC. Check for signs of electric distress or tubes overheating. NO GUITARS PLUGGED IN. VOLUME(S) AT ZERO. Speakers plugged in.

I usually replace ALL 'lytics (including bypass caps & esp BIAS power supply) on ANY amp that seems to have caps older than 15-20 years. I usually use Sprague Atoms. Keep mfd values in power supply as close to original as possible. You can go UP in voltage rating, if the bigger caps will fit under the hood. I try to use higher voltage rated bypass caps. Like 25mfd/50 VDC rated ones for orignal 25md/25 VDC. These withstand heat better and can tolerate today's higher outlet voltages.

Note on Bias power supply: I replace the single diode, if it looks stock. UF4004 usually works fine for this position.

These are "tricks" I picked up from guys that restore vintage hi-fi as well as guitar amps. A properly restored PS and Bias power supply can increase the life of the entire amp for years & years. Bypass caps helps to give the amp bass and transients it may have lost through dried-up old parts.

Worry about tubes, once the PS and Bias power supply are known to be stable & quiet. It maybe a good idea to check the idle BIAS of the power tubes before putting the amp through its paces. For an ap of this vintage and potential value, a trip to a good amp tech, when you get the amp, maybe worth it. In terms of long, worry-free use. As Leo intended...

Just my 2¢ worth. Good luck with the new baby!


+10,000!

Arjay

_________________
"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY


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