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Post subject: i have aquired a 65 bandmaster and have some questions......
Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 7:52 am
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first off, i know nothing about vintage amps. i have found that it is a 65' and a blackface.

i was talking to a friend at work and i mentioned that i have never really had a nice amp. he said "i've got just the thing for you". and the next day he brought me in a 65' fender bandmaster. he said that it was given to him years ago after his father in law had to clean out a studio and he just let it sit for the past 10+ years. the cabinet has 2 12" speakers. it is in top condition. the grill cloth is perfect on both the head and the cab. everything is 100% original. even the cord connecting the head to the cabinet.

here is my question......there are some specks of rust on some of the metal parts. should i replace all of the metal parts or will that bring down the value?

im not focused on the value of the amp but how can i find a ballpark on its worth?


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Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 9:00 am
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Congrats! Great amp (IMNSHO :wink: )

If it's just small surface rust, don't worry. If it's rust on the transformers, do not touch or you'll mess them up. And yes, replacing the metal parts will decrease the value.

First things first - you'll need to get a grounded 3-prong power cord and have the filter capacitors changed. Both are easy for most competent amp techs to do, are reversible for those who crave all-original parts, but will make your amp safe to play without fear of electrical shock. They also don't change the sound of your amp in any way. In my book, this is mandatory, not optional.

Value - there are many different places to check, from completed sales in eBay, Vintage Guitar magazine, etc.

Post pics of your new acquisition, and again, welcome to the club.

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'59? Bogen Challenger CHA-33, '65 Bandmaster, '65 Tremolux, 65 Showman;
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Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 10:49 am
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Arjay

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Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 3:03 pm
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Welcome to the forum. Nice amp acquisition. This link may give you a little better idea what they go for. http://www.gbase.com/stores/gear/gearli ... bandmaster .............. 8) Mike

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Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 7:45 pm
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That's a nice amp and a great friend ! I have a '67 that's just in a zone of it's own. Happy Pickin' ! Art

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Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 2:11 am
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For chrome parts likes corner, handle, use 0000 steel wool. For other metal parts, don't touch.
For the filter caps, if you want to gig with very often change it but if you want to play at your home don't change it. AC chord with ground is a must.
But the MOST important if you want somebody to work in your amp : find a good tech, somebody you can trust. Somebody that you know by friends.

To many amps are damaged by work "false" tech.
Read the post : My 1967 Fender Super Reverb blowing fuses. 2 post before your.
Do nothing unless you are sure, take your time.


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Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 9:09 am
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stratele52 wrote:
For chrome parts likes corner, handle, use 0000 steel wool.


These parts are nickel-plated, not chrome.

If they are tarnished it's possible to restore their sheen with polishing compounds such as Simichrome or Brasso. If they are scratched and/or pitted with rust already in evidence, scouring them with an abrasive such as steel wool will only temporarily restore them -- the oxidation process will continue and they will rust again, perhaps even worse than before since the plating will be further scratched. Naval Jelly may remove surface rust but deeply-pitted parts will be unaffected.

The only chrome hardware parts on a vintage amp are the logo (blackface and silverface only), the tilt-back legs (but not the "stops"), the knurled anchoring knobs to attach a piggyback head to its matching cabinet, and the slider brackets on the bottom of a piggyback head for same.

Data plates on the rear of some silverface speaker cabinets are made of polished aluminum, with the information silk-screened in acrylic paint. These should be cleaned with warm water and mild detergent only to prevent the painted data from dissolving.

Raised chrome logos have their backgrounds painted in semi-gloss black lacquer -- again, use no chemicals lest the paint flake off. These logos are cast zinc then plated. Use no abrasives lest the chrome be damaged.

HTH

Arjay

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"Here's why reliability is job one: A great sounding amp that breaks down goes from being a favorite piece of gear to a useless piece of crap in less time than it takes to read this sentence." -- BRUCE ZINKY


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Post subject:
Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 12:59 pm
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Thank's Retroverbial,
You have good receipt too.
I use 0000 steel wool on my nickel-plated metal parts with good result on many vintage amps I have.


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Post subject:
Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 2:43 pm
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100% aggrement with Arjay re: Simichrome. Be sure to get the German made Happich Simichrome. I've use this on my car restorations as well as amps. Really works well and doesn't cause dulling with age or use.

FWIW: I first started using Simichrome on my 2002Ti restoration which runs dual Weber side-draft carbs. The linkage still looks as good as new, 20 years later. Great little car, but had to drop the compression down to 9.1:1, due to lower octance Super.

http://simichrome-polish.com/


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