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Post subject: My Fender Aerodyne Jazz needs help!
Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 2:37 pm
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Location: Örnsköldsvik, Sweden
I need some help to get my Aerodyne Jazz working again :( It looks amazing and I like it. But the wiring has been a problem. I have had to open it up before one time when a wire had come loose. Maybe I did something wrong then because, I think it's the middle pot, it doesn't have any effect on the sound anymore. And now a cable came loose from the jack.

So I've fixed that but would realy like to have some kind of schematics over how the wiring should be originaly. I've looked online but haven't found it.

Also under the knobs there is some kind of nut to keep it in place but the one under the Volume knob is just gone! Must have cracked and fell of without me noticing it. So the volume knob is realy loose. How do I take of the knobs?

So I guess I have two questions:
- Where can I find a wiring diagram for the bass.
- and how do I get the knobs off?

Best regards
Bjorn Erixon


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Post subject: Re: My Fender Aerodyne Jazz needs help!
Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 3:50 pm
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Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 4:31 am
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Location: Province de Québec, Canada
Look there; second page.


www.seymourduncan.com/images/products/b ... 30-100.pdf

wiring problem with aerodyne on Fender Forum

forums.fender.com/viewtopic.php?t=13466


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Post subject: Re: My Fender Aerodyne Jazz needs help!
Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 8:33 pm
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Location: Albemarle, NC
The wiring diagram on page 2 at the link given by Stratele52 will work. Disregard the 250k value stated for the pots and just use whatever is in there. Likewise disregard the cap value. Often on passive Asian P/J setups you'll see 500k pots with something like a 0.068uF caps instead of the 250k pots and 0.05uF cap on the SD diagram. Actually a passive P/J setup sounds brighter with 500k pots anyway and 250k pots can make a P/J sound too sound dark, especially when the Jazz pickup is soloed. Fender USA used 500k pots on the Fender JP90 P/J design which is one of my all time favorite passive P/J circuits, so it is perfectly OK to have 500k pots in there.

There are two basic types of knobs used on Fender instruments. Setscrew knobs & friction knobs. To get a guitar knob off first always check for a setscrew on the side of the knob. If a setscrew is present loosen it and the knob will slip right off. (Righty-tighty/Lefty-loosey.) Some knob set screws take a flathead jeweler's screwdriver and others take a hex key. However I think the knobs on these are the second type of knob which is a simple push on/pull off friction knob (no setscrew) on split-shaft pots and if so they should pull straight off. Use latex gloves or a piece of latex to get a better grip. If they won't pull off using finger power, put on safety glasses and slip a thin wire or shoelace under the knob. Work the shoelace/wire as close to the shaft as possible. Hold down the guitar body and pull straight up on both ends of the wire or lace and use a slight rocking motion with steady pressure to break the knob free, but know that often when you do this the knobs will fly off at high speed, so put a towel over the area where the knob is located to stop it from flying away and becoming lost or damaged. Speaking from experience about the towel as I've had Stratocaster knobs bounce off the ceiling and then it requires a treasure hunt afterwards to locate them. I have used old "B" guitar strings instead of wire, but if using wire or a guitar string be sure to grip both ends with pliers so you don't cut your hands since quite a bit of force may be needed to break the knob free from a fully seated position.

If the above doesn't make sense, here is a link to a "HOW-TO" webpage on knob removal that might make more sense: http://www.ehow.com/how_5552039_remove-knobs-guitar-amplifier.html

If a replacement nut is needed due to one being lost, remove one of the other nuts and get one that same size. If you can't find one the right size you may have to buy another pot or switch with the same size nut just to get the nut. CTS pots used on USA/MIM instruments have larger shaft diameters than your typical Asian mini-pot, so you'd need an Asian pot or switch most likely. I'm guessing the nut is still there under the knob and you just can't see it.

I tighten pot nuts with deep sockets of the right size because there is no chance of scratching the instrument's finish with the socket while pliers tend to slip and can seriously mar paint or pickguards. I do not use the ratchet wrench part, I just tighten the nut using the bare socket while turning it barehanded. Hold the back of the pot while tightening the nut to keep it from turning.

Let us know once you get it re-wired and working good!


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Post subject: Re: My Fender Aerodyne Jazz needs help!
Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 7:36 am
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Hey guys! Thank you for all information! I'll report back to you with results later, but this looks exactly like what I need! :P


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Post subject: Re: My Fender Aerodyne Jazz needs help!
Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 9:24 am
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The SD diagram posted is identical to the JACO diagram with 2 Jazz pickups.

I was checking to make sure this diagram offered the correct perspective as working from the back of the pots mounted on the control plate. Often I've found SD diagrams to be drawn as looking from the FRONT of the instrument where the knobs attach instead of from behind the pots. Looking at them from the back or behind is the point of view you normally have when wiring them after they are mounted in a control plate. People frequently wind up with controls that work precisely backwards when following other SD diagrams because of the different viewpoint orientation. However the orientation on this diagram is from the back.

Here is the JACO:
http://guitarnucleus.com/gitschems/FenJacoJazzSchem.pdf


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