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Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 8:47 pm
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Rock Star
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Bezmotivnik wrote:
brotherdave wrote:

I think if it is noisy, the first thing I'd do is copper shield and star ground it. That will cost about $13 in parts at the most. Might make a big difference and if it doesn't you aren't out much.

Star grounding only corrects noise in high-voltage circuits. It's meaningless in an instrument. Ask any EE.

There is also no advantage in shielding with copper over the adhesive-backed HVAC aluminum foil tape that's standard in the industry. All you need is overlap at the seams and everything having contact with common.

The noise source with the Jaguars was discontinuity from common in the painted shielding in the upper cavity, which was a NOTORIOUS problem with these instruments, as was oxidized contact with the battery thanks to a poor design.

These are about a five minute fix.

The active circuit is far from noise-free, but the vast bulk of the noise complaints on the Jaguar are covered with the above fix.


Perhaps I am mispeaking when referring to star grounding. I line every cavity completely and the back of the pickguard in copper. Run wires soldered to the ground and to each pickup cavity and the control cavity. Works for me.

You can shield your basses the way you want. I know my way works for me. Your mileage may vary. If I want to go to more trouble than I have to in order for me to to satisfied that it can't possibly be any better, that doesn't mean anyone else would have to follow suite. I said "I'd do" not "you should do this."

I'm no "electrical engineer" or even a "guitar tech," I'm a musician. My way works for me around neon signs and other very noisy environments like CRT monitors. In my opinion, the shielding paint isn't as effective as I have that on an Ibanez passive bass and it is much quieter now with the copper tape wired to ground. Maybe I should ask an engineer about that shielding paint too!

You can not solder a ground wire to aluminum. Hence there is that one important advantage to using copper.

I agree the aluminum works but you just can't solder to it.

To insure a perfect connection I try to put a bead of solder at each copper tape seam. At some angles this is difficult but I try. Logic tells me that the solder at the seam will make a better and more permanent connection than I would get with a layer of adhesive in between the copper surfaces.

If you use aluminum you have to either tape the ground wire to the aluminum, which isn't permanent, or use a screw and I don't like adding screws. But if you want to risk cracking or drilling through to the exterior of your body that is your choice.

I just make sure as much as possible is encased in copper tape or sheeting and each cavity is grounded. Usually only the front of the pickups is exposed and everything else is surrounded by copper and grounded.

YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY. Just because it works for me, doesn't me you should do it.

Aluminum tape will certainly work and I never said it wouldn't. Just that I don't like it and why I don't use it. We are talking about a price difference of a few dollars between aluminum and copper. If you are making 5,000 guitars you use the aluminum and screws because it is cheaper. But for a few dollars more on my personal instruments, I prefer copper. I agree that there is no tonal advantage to copper.


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Post subject: Re: I was disgusted by the response!!!!
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 11:36 am
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Aspiring Musician
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Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 9:22 am
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Do you live under a rock? its the same with anything you buy now-a-days or even decades ago,why is it easier to get a car loan for a new car as opposed to a used one ? the value drops so fast that a used car re'poed is worth dog dirt while a new car gets moderate returns,so to be harsh but this is'nt pinpointed to a guitar,its everything everywhere,they make alot of money on instant gratification,if you sell it on auction you get back most of your investment but it takes a week or so,but walk into a music store and leave with cash on the spot is alot more appealing even when they bend you over,take your time and sell it to someone willing to pay for it,I bought a used American p-bass in 100% mint condition,a few years old but judging by the fret wear it had about 20 hrs of playing time,new they are 1100.00$ and I payed 449.00$ for it,they paid the seller 325.00$ for it,675.00$ loss was taken,me was very happy though :mrgreen:

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