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Post subject: Jazz Bass resale value? MIM 2001
Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 1:33 am
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Thinking of selling my MIM Jazz to get a Geddy version....how much you think this will sell for?

[img][IMG]http://i1349.photobucket.com/albums/p741/zildjianorama/20130605_182441_zpsbf2d63f0.jpg[/img][/img]

[img][IMG]http://i1349.photobucket.com/albums/p741/zildjianorama/20130605_182455_zpsa4bbb747.jpg[/img][/img]


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Post subject: Re: Jazz Bass resale value? MIM 2001
Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 11:32 am
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350- 400


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Post subject: Re: Jazz Bass resale value? MIM 2001
Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 11:44 am
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There are a lot of dents and small chips though. And there's a spot on the top horn where the coating is scratched...

And my local music stores don't "buy" used instruments...only gives credit for a purchase that's higher in price. BLEH. Local CL aren't that demanding for a Fender jazz bass, especially a MIM. I see mostly American models that are priced between $800-2000 depending on model and year and condition, but yeah....


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Post subject: Re: Jazz Bass resale value? MIM 2001
Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 1:09 pm
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Location: Linningrad
If you check Guitar Center's used basses online most MIM Jazz's are going around the $300 area. :|

:idea: :arrow: It would be pretty easy and relatively inexpensive to upgrade that puppy with Custom Shop p'ups, and either a Fender High Mass or Vintage High Mass bridge, also new CTS pots and a sprague tone cap. 8)

Plus a trip to your friendly luthier can make your neck play like buttah! :)
And look at it this way, your bass is already relic'd for no extra charge! :wink:

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One day they shall name a GREAT city after me, and they shall call it LINNINGRAD


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Post subject: Re: Jazz Bass resale value? MIM 2001
Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 1:22 pm
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I live in Canada; we have no GC or MF


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Post subject: Re: Jazz Bass resale value? MIM 2001
Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 1:23 pm
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Location: Albemarle, NC
For HERE I agree with the rough estimation given for above average condition on a fully stock 2001 Jazz with hard case. I might sell it as low as $300 here with no case.

Depending on the dealer, you will almost always get more for it by selling it outright in a private party sale. Dealers typically ONLY give you about HALF what they think they can sell it for used even when trading it.

Only take cash and get the buyer's ID off their driver's license and give them your ID also. That way if the cash turns out to be counterfeit you can tell the police where you got the bogus cash. That happened to a friend of mine who sold a car on craigslist to a man he met in a parking lot at a fast food joint. He got about half the money in counterfeit bills. He didn't have the buyer's ID so he had no recourse and was just out the money because the bank seized the counterfeit when he deposited it right after the sale. Tell the buyer you need to write a bill of sale. Start writing and ask for his driver's license to make it faster. Then write two bills of sale and keep a copy yourself. It should state the make, model, serial and "sold as-is with no warranty and all sales final" along with buyer's full ID including license number and the seller's ID. Then take money to bank and deposit it. Also discreetly write down the color, make, model and tag number of the car they come in. Have your wife or family member go outside while they are looking at it to get the license plate number.

I'd expect it to have a $300 to $350 retail tag here even with wear but I'm also seeing what appears to be two finish cracks or reflections on the front of the lower body about parallel with the tone control. If those are not cracks I'd ask $350 and take $300 cash HERE but there could be different.

That is a 3 color burst and it looks to be in pretty good shape. It has an alder body and maple neck, both cut in Corona and the neck was Corona fretted. It has a rosewood fretboard. It likely has veneered top and back on the body which is why you do not see any block seams, they are under the veneer. At this time there were no CNC machines in Ensenada so the cutting and fretting was done at Corona, then shipped rough cut to Ensenada. The body blanks were slightly different than the USA ones in that they were veneer and not rectangular like the USA blanks. They used slightly shaped up veneered body blanks on the MIM ones that were not as big to begin with as the USA ones and didn't need quite as much shaping. The necks of course use an entirely different truss rod system than the USA necks and the neck blanks were also a lower grade than USA necks. But they were cut and the neck fretted by the same people using the same CNC machines as the USA ones.

The fact there are no MIM Jazzes for sale around there is not a disadvantage! It makes yours one of the few and anyone looking for one will likely bite. They are a perfectly good instrument, and for 99% of the players all the Jazz Bass they actually need.

Frankly, I'd be way more cautious of a 2001 Standard Jazz without a few love licks on it because I'd be figuring there's some reason it didn't get played and go looking for the reason.

Call it a "Real World Road Worn 2001 Fender Standard Jazz Bass" and ask $350. If all original, state it is all original. Originality matters a lot to me and others. State also WHY you are selling it, to buy your "dream" bass. Be sure to detail any case/gig bag or other included accessories in your ad. State what strings are on it now. State any issues. I'd suggest stating SERIOUS INQUIRIES ONLY and that you HATE TO SELL IT BUT I'VE GOT AN OPPORTUNITY TO GET MY DREAM BASS. CASH ONLY NO TRADES NO CHECKS.

With gig bag I'd bump up the price $15 and with a hard case of any sort in usable shape bump it up $50. I don't think I'd take less than $300 for it with no case. I'd keep it because here it is worth at least that. You are not really desperate to sell it like to raise bail money or pay for mama's brain surgery. So blow off the lowball offers. I would not take less than $300 with no case.


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Post subject: Re: Jazz Bass resale value? MIM 2001
Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 1:51 pm
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Location: Albemarle, NC
linnin wrote:
If you check Guitar Center's used basses online most MIM Jazz's are going around the $300 area. :|

:idea: :arrow: It would be pretty easy and relatively inexpensive to upgrade that puppy with Custom Shop p'ups, and either a Fender High Mass or Vintage High Mass bridge, also new CTS pots and a sprague tone cap. 8)

Plus a trip to your friendly luthier can make your neck play like buttah! :)
And look at it this way, your bass is already relic'd for no extra charge! :wink:


That is mostly good info and the advice about a pro setup is priceless if you aren't good at doing setups. No matter how long I've been playing or doing setups on my basses there is this one guy here who does setups better than I can, but that is because he does them constantly.

The pots are already CTS and other than the split shaft are the same pots as on the USA instruments, so if they ain't broke I would leave them be for now. The tone cap change is something I'd do almost immediately with either a vintage ceramic disc ($1) or a Sprague Vitamin-Q paper in oil ($15) depending on the application. I'd do a copper foil shielding job ($13) when swapping the cap and maybe add pickup/bridge covers if I decided it was a keeper later.

I actually LIKE the vintage threaded bridge ($24) on these, Fender part # 0990804100.
For pickups, I might eventually go to the Fender USA Original Jazz Bass ($90), Fender part# 0992123000. But that's just me and pickups are a personal thing.

I think I'd do the tone cap swap and shielding job about as soon as I got it home. I'd put Thomastik-Infeld EB344 PowerBass strings on it at once too, but the other stuff could wait a bit until I made sure I was keeping it.

About the last thing I'd change is the pots to a solid shaft, and only so I could put USA knobs on it. I like the USA knobs a lot better with the set screw and the marker line over the Strat speed knobs. Those original knobs on these are something that makes them instantly distinguishable as MIM along with the headstock truss rod adjustment access.


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