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Post subject: Deluxe Jazz Pot Replacement Assistance
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 7:58 pm
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i just picked up a second hand deluxe active jazz bass. the bottom pot (the smallest one closest to the floor when you're holding it) is not functioning correctly, and i think it just needs to be replaced. it just crackles and spins, and causes the signal to cut out.

i've never owned a deluxe jazz before...is that pot supposed to control the mid? what pot should i use to replace it?


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Post subject: imo
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 9:00 pm
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I own a 2006 JBD I believe it is the on and off switch for passive/active mode.

KEEPIN IT LOW


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Post subject:
Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 9:08 pm
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huh. well mine is certainly a pot and not a switch. it looks like this:

Image


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Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 2:32 am
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Location: Albemarle, NC
I think you mean a Deluxe Active Jazz. If so, yes it is a MID control. If yours is really a 2006 (or post 2004) your control layout is explained here: http://support.fender.com/diagrams/basses/0136760A/SD0136760APg4.pdf

Sounds like the pot itself is loose and not firmly tightened to the control plate. This is a common problem on all instruments. While you think the pot may be bad what has probably happened is the pot is moving which can cause a break in a solder joint or a short. Either one causes the crackles you describe. The pot itself may have no fault other than it is loose and needs to be tightened, then correct any wiring breaks.

To fix it:

First thing, remove the black plastic knob. I don't think these have set screws and should just pull straight off. If it does have a tiny set screw hole in the knob shaft, loosen the set screw first and it should slip off easily. Set screws usually require a hex key/Allen wrench. (I'd just go ahead and pull all the knobs so you can make sure all the pots are tight. If one is loose, they all might need to be tightened.

Second, once the black knobs are pulled off, remove the screws securing the chrome control plate to the instrument. Third, carefully lift the control plate. Inspect the physical orientation of the pot relative to this diagram: http://support.fender.com/diagrams/basses/0136760A/SD0136760APg2.pdf

Third, once pot physically oriented correctly tighten the nut on the top of the control plate while holding the pot in position on backside of the control plate. I use a socket from a socket wrench set that fits over the nut and then using my hand directly on the socket rotate it clockwise to tighten it down. The pot shaft goes through the socket so you can't use the socket wrench handle, you don't want to anyway as you can get it tight enough without the handle by just rotating the socket with your bare hand. I'm sure I am not the only one who has tried using PLIERS for this and slipped with a marred finish as the result. That is why I use a socket.

Fourth, once pot tight inspect solder connections. Resolder any broken ones using the diagram in the last link as a guide. IF THIS FIXES IT STOP HERE.

Fifth, if the crackles or static persists, spray contact cleaner into the pot using care not to get any on the instrument finish and rotate the pot full travel multiple times. IF THIS FIXES IT STOP HERE.

Sixth, if still making noise replace pot using previous wiring diagram with FENDER PART NUMBER: 0049443000 "Control 100KB CNTR DTNT." This is a 100KB pot with center detent and will be easiest to find from a Fender dealer as this is fairly specialized part.

For SOLDERING INSTRUCTIONS, go to the following link on my website and scroll down to the next to last paragraph on the page that begins, "SOLDERING IS A SKILL." There click on the various links listed for good lessons in how to solder properly! http://brotherdave.com/add_maint.htm

GOOD LUCK!


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Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 12:06 pm
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thanks for the info!


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Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 1:08 pm
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Thanks for the correction Brodave now I know more about my Deluxe. Still a great bass JON mine is antique white with tortoise shell pickguard badass2 bridge.

Keepin it low


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