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Post subject: Corroded bridge, dead tone on used MIM Jazz
Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 4:37 pm
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Hey all,

I just bought a used MIM Jazz from a pawn shop last week (ca. 93-94) for $225. I think that's a steal in any condition. (This one even came with a cheap gig bag and a new set of strings left in the pocket!) This one's in great condition except for the bridge and all pickguard screws, which are all pretty corroded.

Question:
Would a corroded (stock) bridge deaden the tone? I only got to play it through a cheap amp at the pawn shop and it sounded fine, but when I plugged it into my own rig it was pretty blah. None of the deep penetrating bottom end you usually get from Fenders, and not much sustain. I'm gonna replace the bridge with something nice (Badass or similar), but I'm just curious if these tone problems can be accounted for by the corroded, lightweight stock bridge.

I assume the body is maple?


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Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:43 am
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I recomend a badass ii, theyre class.

also i doubt the body is maple though, its more likely to be made of alder.

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Post subject: Re: Corroded bridge, dead tone on used MIM Jazz
Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 11:19 am
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dcs002 wrote:

Would a corroded (stock) bridge deaden the tone? I only got to play it through a cheap amp at the pawn shop and it sounded fine, but when I plugged it into my own rig it was pretty blah. None of the deep penetrating bottom end you usually get from Fenders, and not much sustain. I'm gonna replace the bridge with something nice (Badass or similar), but I'm just curious if these tone problems can be accounted for by the corroded, lightweight stock bridge.

I assume the body is maple?


The body is alder except on some special editions like FSR basses.

I'd also replace the strings since you have to take them off to change the bridge anyway. Dead strings can sound pretty bad. They are called "DEAD" because they sound dead which is pretty much the sound you are describing. I really don't think a rusty bridge would make that much difference in tone until the rust attacks the strings. With stainless strings it probably wouldn't ever matter at all. In fact it is sort of rare to find an old original Fender bass bridge with the threaded saddles (ridges over the entire saddle width) that isn't a bit rusty.

Once you do the bridge and strings if it still disappoints look at the electronics. I'd check the pickup using jumper leads directly to an amp to bypass the controls. If the pickup sounds great then it is something in the controls, if it still sounds below par bypassing the controls then it is the pickup. If the controls are at fault they can be cleaned or replaced. If the pickup is weak then it can be rewound or replaced. Also little things like pickup height can matter too. GOOD LUCK and I hope you get it setup to sound awesome.


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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 1:18 am
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Thanks for your input. I changed the strings right away, and I'm experimenting with different pickup height. It still lacks that penetrating bottom end.

My friend has an old generic knockoff with a much heavier body, and it sounds fantastic -- great bottom. Like an old vintage Jazz. I wish I knew what kind of wood that was made of...


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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 3:27 am
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dcs002 wrote:
... It still lacks that penetrating bottom end.

My friend has an old generic knockoff with a much heavier body, and it sounds fantastic -- great bottom. Like an old vintage Jazz. I wish I knew what kind of wood that was made of...


Wood should not prevent you from getting full fat tones. The type of tone wood used produces tonal variations that are more subtle than the dead tone you describe.

I honestly don't think it is the bridge causing the issue either. I'm guessing it is one or more electronic issues. If the bass has a very rusty bridge and rusty screws there is possibly corrosion in the pots and jack too. This could be causing a signal loss. Also depending on the age of the instrument and how it was treated you may have a weak pickup or two. Also someone may have done some mods or wired the bass incorrectly. There are lots of possible causes. Before spending $100 on an aftermarket high mass bridge that isn’t going to fix this issue I’d have a good instrument tech check the electronics. This thing might have been submerged for all we know. This will cost a little money, but is the one sure way to fix the right thing instead of buying expensive parts that are not going to improve the basic tone of the instrument.

I don’t want to step on anyone’s toes, but the MIM pickups from this era are not exactly renowned for their excellent tone. It could be the bass is working fine and all the electronics are OK, but it just is what it is. I had a 94 MIM Jazz and it sounded kind of vanilla but I could tweak the amp and make it sound pretty dang good. However I would never have described it as sounding dead. There are plenty of aftermarket pickups out there. I’d consider a set of decent pickups for it before a new bridge. While installing the pickups you can replace all the pots, jack and capacitor for about $20 more to make sure it is 100% good to go. Look at replacement pickups by Fender, Seymour Duncan and Wilde Pickups by Bill Lawrence. All are excellent values that will cost only slightly more than a new Badass bridge. Fender’s Original Jazz Bass set goes for $100. The Seymour Duncans will run about $116 and the Wilde by Bill Lawrence about $120. Any of those should bring the thunder.

A new bridge won’t hurt anything, but it won’t fix a basic tonal deficiency. Badass bridges of any type are in short supply right now. I suggest as an alternative the Gotoh 201 for bridge through strung MIM basses. It costs half what the Badass II costs, is a really good bridge for the money and best of all you can actually find one right now. Guitar Parts Resource has all the parts you’ll need including bridge, Fender or Seymour Duncan pickups, pots, cap and wire. The Wilde Pickups by Bill Lawrence are available only at WildePickups dot com.


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