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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 1:34 pm
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Just to set the record straight...
All RIC 4001s and 4003s have double trussrods. The difference is in the type of trussrod system.
The 4001 was designed when flatwounds were king and the neck design had issues with the higher tension that some roundwounds had. But, where most of the fretboard popping came from was improper use of the trussrods. To adjust a 4001 system properly, you needed to loosen the strings and physically adjust the neck by hand. Once it was totally straight, you tightened the trussrods to hold it in place. This is a completely different process than adjusting other brands like Fender. If you expected the neck to be adjusted by tightening the rods it would result in overtightening which actually bent the rods under the fretboard. Something would have to give way and that frequently resulted in the fretboard popping.
The 4003 was a redesign of the 4001 in which higher tension strings like rounds were taken into consideration. One major change was a completely new trussrod system. It is still 2 rods but they adjust in a more contemporary fashion like Fender and other companies.
Now that that's out of the way...
I own both an American Jazz and a RIC. They are both great choices. It depends on the sound that you are looking for. A Jazz can be had for about $1100 and the RIC will go for about $1700-2000 depending on where you find one. I would suggest spending a good amount of time playing one and go with which ever feels the best. There's no wrong answer, they are both great.


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Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 9:18 pm
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"To adjust a 4001 system properly, you needed to loosen the strings and physically adjust the neck by hand. Once it was totally straight, you tightened the trussrods to hold it in place. This is a completely different process than adjusting other brands like Fender. If you expected the neck to be adjusted by tightening the rods it would result in overtightening which actually bent the rods under the fretboard. Something would have to give way and that frequently resulted in the fretboard popping. "

I don't know anybody who adjusted their 4001 bass with this method and I have a difficult time understanding how you hold the neck straight with no strings on it. Isn't it already straight?
After you do this and tighten the rods and then tune up the strings-doesn't the neck move anyway? Or are you saying that the neck stays as straight
as it was with no string tension?
Maybe I am missing something in the explanation but I don't want to try this on my 4001!

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Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 4:10 pm
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here is some truss rod adjustment info from the Ricresouce.com web page ...

It is important to note that for models made before 1984 that the truss rods were not designed to move the neck by tightening alone. For pre 1984 instruments, the neck should be moved into place manually and then the rods tightened to hold the neck in position. Failing to follow this procedure may pop the fretboard from the neck of your Rickenbacker.


Back off both nuts, then retighten just until you feel contact with the bearing plate. Tune to pitch. You need to flex the neck back towards straightness before tightening the rods. This can be done using simple gravity and (very little) muscle, or with a clamping setup.

The quick and dirty way is to put the neck across your lap. Hold down the first few frets with your left hand. Let the body hang in space. The body's weight will straighten the neck somewhat while you tighten the rods with your right hand.

The more accurate, but more slow and cumbersome way: You need two pieces of wood slim enough to sit on the fingerboard between your D + A strings. Pad the sides that will touch the fingerboard with cork. You need a reasonably stiff board as long as the neck. Last, you need one clamp with padded jaws that opens to at least 9-10". Place one small piece between the nut and first fret, the other around the 15th fret. Rest the long board on edge on these two pieces. Place your clamp at the 6th fret. Apply just enough clamp tension so that the whole affair will not fall apart. Get your straightedge. Tighten the clamp until you're satisfied (I never go for a totally straight neck). Snug up the rods. Release the clamp, and check your progress.


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Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 2:12 pm
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Thanks for the explanation for truss rod adjustment. I will visit that website for more info.
The idea of straightening the neck before tightening the truss rod, is probably good advice for any truss rod system.
I know that the double truss rod system is a bit more confusing for most, myself included.
Is there any advice as to the best way to adjust the two rods?
Is there a special technique to counter a twisted neck or humps in the fingerboard?

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Post subject: jazz vs ric
Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 6:05 pm
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I have both an american jazz 5 string and a ric and i prefer the jazz to be honest. the ric is sweet to play for some styles but for me the jazz hangs nicer deeper punch richer tone (thru my eden traveller) my jazz is my baby - i use the ric for alt tunings and the like. when i want to groove on the blues i reach for my fender


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