OK. As I promised last night, here is my adventure swapping tubes around in my BDRI. Note that I am not going to recommend specific tube brands, just identify what I have been using. Tube brands are a very personal thing and everyone has their favorites. I like JJ tubes and use them in all three of my tube amps, but we're primarily going to talk about tube types. If you want more information about JJ tubes for the BDRI, check out
https://www.eurotubes.com/cart/index.ph ... ory_id=122My BDRI came equipped with Groove Tubes in the following configuration:
V1 = 12AX7
V2 = 12AX7
V3 = 12AX7 (Balanced for PI use)
V4/V5 = 6L6R (Actually SOVTEK 5881WXTs).
The tubes sounded OK, but a couple things I noticed were the highs were somewhat piercing and the clean sound was kind of thin and harsh. I play (or at least try to play) Blues and prefer a thicker, warmer sound. The drive channel I did not like at all (I currently use a Full Tone FD-2M through the clean channel for overdrive).
The first thing I did was learn about biasing the amp. After doing some research, I learned that Fender has a tendency to bias their amps pretty cold, primarily to extend tube life. The Fender spec for the BDRI is 60 mV at the bias test point with a plate voltage of about 430 VDC. I learned that this equates to an idle power of about 12 watts. I have read, but not confirmed that the stock power tubes are only rated at 25 watts. This would translate to a bias setting of about 48% max plate dissipation. Way cold! If the stock tubes were 30 watts, they would be even colder at that setting. Anyway, I tried increasing the bias voltage at the test point to 70, then 75, and finally 80 mV. The amp probably sounded best at about 75 mV. What I didn't realize at the time was that you also have to measure the plate voltage as it will decrease as the bias is increased and vice versa. Oh, well. Nothing blew up. Yet.
Still not happy, I decided to change tubes.
My first crack at different tubes was the JJ "Blues Option" from Eurotubes. That set consists of:
V1 = 12AX7
V2 = 12AT7
V3 = 12AX7 (Balanced for PI use)
V4/V5 = 6L6GC.
12AT7? Now I had to learn more about different "gain factors" for preamp tubes. Turns out a 12AX7 has a gain factor of "100" and a 12AT7 has a gain factor of "60". Here's a good explanation of gain factor:
http://thetubestore.com/gainfactor.htmlSo, what this all means is that the amp now has a little less gain from input to output. It will still play plenty loud, you just have to turn it up more or hit it with a bigger input. How did it sound? Pretty good. I also learned that the JJ 6L6GCs could be biased hotter for a thicker, more driven tone. By this time I learned that you had to measure plate voltage too. So, I set out to increase my bias when things blew up.
Well, they didn't really "blow up", but there were a lot of sparks and a small fire.
While I was measureing the plate voltage with my DVM on pin 3 of V5, the probe slipped and momentarily connected pins 3 and 2 (the heater). There was a big spark and a tiny fire on the PCB. Naturally I jumped back, pulled the probe out, blew out the fire, and turned off the power. There was a small charred area on the PCB between the two pins. How do I clean that up? Well, I took my electric toothbrush, and old brush attachment dipped in alcohol, and scrubbed the charred spot. It actually cleaned up quite nicely. There is a small depression where the fire burned the PCB, but very little residue. Amazingly, there was no damage and everything worked afterwards. I never told my wife what happened.
Following that episode, I invested in a bias probe:
http://www.amp-head.com/product_info.ph ... ucts_id=70Now I could safely bias the amp to my heart's content.
The amp was sounding pretty good, but there was one issue I had that I had been reading about others complaining about. That was the fact that volume on the clean channel jumps significantly between "1" and "3". The common fix is to suggest replacing the volume control with an audio taper pot. That is wrong, by the way, as the clean volume control is already an audio taper pot. My research led me to believe that the problem was too much gain in the preamp stage. What to do?

Swap the 12AT7 from V2 with the 12AX7 in V1. So now my tube configuration was:
V1 = 12AT7
V2 = 12AX7
V3 = 12AX7 (Balanced for PI use)
V4/V5 = 6L6GC.
Hey. That works! The volume didn't jump as much and you had to turn the clean volume up a little higher to get things loud like before. But it didn't sound good. With the original configuration, the clean channel was a little thicker sounding. This setup sounded too thin, almost as bad as the original tube set did. So I changed things back to the origninal JJ setup and searched some more.
I then discovered NOS tubes and the 5751.
I buy all of my NOS tubes from here:
https://www.kcanostubes.com/The owner, Mike K is a nice guy (I got to meet him) and lives only about 20 minutes from me.
Anyway, after reading about SRV and others using a 5751 in V1 to bring the gain down a little I bought a couple. The 5751 has a gain factor of about "70" a little more than the 12AT7 but still less than the 12AX7. And the sound? Fantastic. Warm and thicker with no harshness. But the amp was still a little too loud for home, so I decided to try a balanced 12AT7 in the PI like Fender uses in some of their other amps. So this configuration was:
V1 = 5751
V2 = 12AX7
V3 = 12AT7 (Balanced for PI use)
V4/V5 = 6L6GC.
The 12AT7 in the PI position seemed to tighten up the bass a bit. Volume was now at a more resonable level for home use (but still capable of being quite loud), and the clean channel voume control was, well, more controllable.

The amp sounded great.
But could it sound better?
By this time I had learned about the real "tweed" amps from the 50's. Hey, the BDRI looks like a tweed amp. Can it be made to sound like one? Well, no. But I did learn that several tweed amps used a 12AY7 (gain factor of about 40 - 45) in V1. Why not. First I tried a EH 12AY7. I was not impressed. Then I said to myself "The 5751 is an NOS JAN tube. Maybe an NOS JAN 12AY7 would sound better". So, back to Mike K I went for some NOS JAN 12AY7s. Now my amp looked like this:
V1 = 12AY7
V2 = 12AX7
V3 = 12AX7
V4/V5 = 6L6GC
I have found sonic heaven.
Well, that's a little bit of an exageration, but the amp did sound darn good. Oh, I briefly tried a 12AT7 in V3 but that made the amp too quiet for me. Overall loudness is about the same as the previous configuration but the clean volume had an even better sweep than the 5751 provided. So, that is my final tube configuration. Does it sound better then the 5751/12AX7/12AT7 combination? Its a bit of a toss up. Both are very smooth and thick sounding. Very nice cleans and capable of a nice "Bluesy" tone. I think it would boil down to personal taste, but you can't go wrong with either combination in this amp.
A couple of things to note. Most of what I have talked about was the effect on the clean channel. Using lower gain tubes in V1 or V2 will reduce the amount of gain available from the drive channel. You can still get a bit of drive, but you have to turn the drive volume up higher. Some may like it, or not. Another personal taste thing. I don't use the drive channel myself as mentioned previously. Also during this time I was experimenting with biasing the power tubes. That will be a separate subject, because I discovered some very unusual things about the bias circuit in my amp.
Tomorrow night: "Speak up. I can't hear you". Yes, we'll talk about speakers for the BDRI.
