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 Post subject: Super Reverb
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:03 pm 
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I'm starting to look for a Super Reverb and would be interested in your thoughts if parts have been replaced, which would be a big concern and which would be lesser concerns? Specifically power transformer, reverb tank, and any other components you feel are important to highlight.

All feedback is appreciated, especially from Retroverbial (Arjay), BMW2002Ti, aciempoppi, T2Stratman, and stratele52. Sorry if I missed anyone but I've been lurking on the site for months and have really enjoyed and learned from the specific posters I highlighted.

Thanks in advance!

Scott

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 Post subject: Re: Super Reverb
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:15 pm 
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As far as the iron is concerned, the output tranny makes the most significant contribution to the amp's overall tone. As well, the Blue Molded tone caps are preferred over the Orange Drops or those shapeless wads of black licorice (check the eyelet board closely for any signs of "monkey business"). A vintage Gibbs or Hammond tank produces the legendary Leo-designed reverb -- some of the US-built Accutronics types are *hokay* but avoid the imports, and especially those Korean-made Beltons. Assuming the rest of the chassis is OEM-intact, a carefully selection of NOS or top-shelf contemporary tubes will keep the amp in fine sonic shape. Speakers are a bit more subjective but if you score a Super Reverb with original CTS alnico ten's you'll never find a sweeter-sounding set, with the possible exception of vintage Jensen C10Q's.

HTH

Arjay

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 Post subject: Re: Super Reverb
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:57 pm 
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Like Arjay said, the Super Reverb's unique tone comes from the iron used (output and power tranny). They should be OEM Schumachers. Check the ID numbers stamped on the transformers. Make sure they jive with the birthdate of the amp.

One other thing gives this amp its unique tone. The rectifier. A good testing US made 5AR4 or Mullard GZ34 will give you years of reliable, toneful service. There really are no current 5AR4/GZ34 that can match these tubes. The only one I can find that comes close are those mil spec Philips ECG mislabel as 5V4GA. I've posted the seller 's Ebay link before, but in case you missed it:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5AR4-Rectifier- ... 5889ea818b

I believe he is going to pull his ad soon. So I would serious consider this tube, if you have any GZ34/5AR4 powered amp. Now or in the future.


Good luck! I love my drip-edge SFSR.

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 Post subject: Re: Super Reverb
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 4:43 pm 
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I would have to agree with Retro and Beemer on the transformers and tube Rectifier...but would add one other thing...the Reverb on the BF models is outstanding and I think that is because both sides of a 12AT7 are used to power it and a whole 12AX7 for recovery. Don't most reverbs use only one half of a twin triode tube in the send and recovery? Not sure how long the SR used this configuration and if it extended into the SF versions...I know the Reverb on my 72 sure sounded sweet!

And since Beemer posted his fine looking SFSR...here is one from the BF era!
Image

T2

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 Post subject: Re: Super Reverb
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 5:22 pm 
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Thanks guys very helpful. I know the Blackface's tend to sell for more and some of the early Silverface's had the AB763 circuit which from what I've read make them sound more like a Blackface, do you agree? Finally, any thoughts on model years? I know the 60's were well regarded, what about the 70's / early 80's?

Thanks again I appreciate your guidance.

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 Post subject: Re: Super Reverb
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 5:23 pm 
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BTW Beemer and T2, the guitars and amps look awesome!

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 Post subject: Re: Super Reverb
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 5:46 pm 
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The best 70's models would be the 70-76 models, they added a master volume in 76, so if you can avoid those later ones do it. However, if you get a good deal on a MV model, just turn the MV all the way off and don't use it.

FWIW

Oh and thanks, Yeah I love my BFSR!!!!

T2

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 Post subject: Re: Super Reverb
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:00 pm 
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T2, I think most all Fenders use both halves of the 12AT7 to drive the reverb tank (actually drive a SE amp and little OPT that drives the tank). 12AT7 and 12AU7 are commnly used because you can run them at much higer idle bias currents, than 12AX7s.

I believe Fender OEM specs runs these 12AT7s, at 10mA constant idle current. It's recommended that you use a good mil spec (best are the three mica 12AT7WA) --- that's are spec'ed for constant high current use and long, quiet life.

I've seen mods to change this 12AT7 to a 6AQ5 or even a 6BQ5 (EL84), to get more power to the tank. For smaller amps this usually requires another PT, too.


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 Post subject: Re: Super Reverb
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:55 pm 
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If you expect the traditional Super Reverb vibe, avoid the late '70s ultra-linear editions. They really sound nothing like the original SR's which is not surprising because they aren't SR's -- they're an all-new 70-watt platform instantly recognizable visually by their lack of a tube rectifier and the normal-channel tone-stack layout (identical to a Twin Reverb).

Arjay

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 Post subject: Re: Super Reverb
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 1:37 pm 
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Hey guys thanks for your feedback and help!

I found a SRBF 66 or 67 (tube chart says Oct. 66, chassis A20005 which I believe is early 67 and the Fender speakers I believe 66)

Image

The flash is making this grill cloth look silver, it is actually goldish

Image

This was without flash

Image

With a 65 Princeton

Image

Image

The only code I could find on speakers

So the only thing is I don't believe the tubes are that great, here is a picture of the rectifier

Image

What would you recommend if I replaced all the tubes? Cost is a factor but I would like to get really good tubes (and who have you had luck buying from)?

Thanks again for all your help!! :D

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 Post subject: Re: Super Reverb
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 3:03 pm 
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That rectifier isn't a tube at all -- it's a Weber Copper Cap, a solid-state replacement device. Using them in lieu of a GZ34/5AR4 usually requires re-biasing. Thus if you plan to switch back to the original specified tube layout, re-biasing is doubly important.

It looks like you did well with the amp -- it's a fine specimen indeed, with no evidence of hackers or modders having had their way with it in the preceding years. A couple of replacement snowman knobs and she'll be nearly perfect, cosmetically.

Rawk on!

8)

Arjay

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 Post subject: Re: Super Reverb
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 3:09 pm 
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Arjay, thanks. I have a trustworthy tech that I can take it to to have it rebiased. (in fact he will be chuffed to see it) . It also has a 2 prong cord I'll probably change to a 3 prong. What do you make of the lack of normal manufacturer codes on the speakers?

Any thoughts on tubes and tube sellers? Thanks

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 Post subject: Re: Super Reverb
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 3:25 pm 
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CTS normally stamped their speakers with a date code and a Fender P/N on the magnet shield -- the stick-on Fender label usually concealed such data. Here's a similar speaker, installed in my '65 Princeton Reverb......

Image

These were -- arguably -- the best drivers ever installed in a Super Reverb. Early examples had black-painted frames while later versions were a bronze/plum color (like mine). Fender also ordered many in a silver lacquer finish.

Image

Arjay

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 Post subject: Re: Super Reverb
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 3:40 pm 
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Congrats Scott, Great looking amp!!! How's it sound? I prefer Hi Test Guitars for tubes. Art

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 Post subject: Re: Super Reverb
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 4:00 pm 
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Art she sounds really good, I'm sure with a quality set of tubes she will sound great. She was very dusty/dirty, took me about 4 hours of cleaning to get to the condition reflected in the pictures.

Do you agree it makes sense to have the 3 prong plus installed?

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